I can never recall the fancy words the heralds use in their descriptives. The sites below use at least mostly plain English, and I have found them helpful. They are here partly because I don't want to lose the links!
SCA Heraldry Wiki - This links to the Pennsic Traceable Art page, but the entire site is useful.
SCA College of Arms
Wiki: Attitude: Heraldry - good, simple, illustrated 'this is how they are standing' page.
Pictorial Dictionary of Heraldry - basic information and drawings. Good to start with, and a VERY helpful site overall for me.
SCA Armorial Search page - covers the Knowne World. All words, no pictures. Know your herald-ese or have translations handy =)
A Complete Guide To Heraldry - by Arthur Charles Fox-Davies, in Edinburgh, 1909. Now in public domain. Has the illustrations, too.
Tuesday, July 19, 2016
Wednesday, March 2, 2016
Lightweight Brigadine
I needed to replace the brigadine I was using, as it is loaner gear for my barony. I was pretty happy with how it worked for me, so I decided to copy it and add the adjustments I wanted to make.
I wanted to be able to buckle myself - nearly impossible when it buckles in the back, which the original one did. I also wanted it to be lighter and more fitted to me.
I stretch out in my armour. That's how I check f I can do that, and not sacrifice protection, I should be OK on the field. Plus I can warm up easily, in full kit, if I need to. The original brig allowed for this, and that was one of the things I liked. It also adjusted as I slimmed down from the fighting and my fitness increased.
For the fabric pattern, I used the Period Patterns #101.I believe they called it a 'surcoat with optional pockets for plates, optional sleeves.'
Plates: You will need:
You will want to curve the flanks and chest/belly plates slightly, to conform to your body.
Cut out the plates. Round the edges to make them less likely to cut you or your fabrics. You can use sandpaper, a power tool of some kind, or even a utility knife. Just be careful, with any of them. Then wipe them off to remove any dust.
Then drill holes for the rivets:
Riveting:
This is how I put the rivets together:
-Chest plates (top front row) overlap so that they crush forwards, as if you were crossing your arms.
-Belly plates crush downwards, so you can bend over easily. Spine plates do the same.
-Flank plates crush towards the chest/belly.
Notes:
-You should have spine plates from the top down to your pants waist.
-Chest/ belly plates should also go down to your pants waist. They start lower to allow room for neck movement. That space should be covered by your gorget.
-There shouldn't be much (if any) room between flank and spine pieces when you're wearing it. There is room between mine, but not after I strap it on & add my tabard & belt.
-The chest/belly pieces should meet when the brig is buckled on. On the brig that I patterned from, they are solid pieces & the brig buckled in the back. I cut them in half in order to allow for buckling the brig in the front.
-Don't forget to shape the chest and belly pieces to fit you somewhat. It can make a big difference.
Straps: I used leather, and they seem to work best when the rivets are 3/4" (on center) below the plate rivets, two per strap on each side. The one place I didn't do that, I could see a difference in just a couple of weeks.
Sweat will cause the leather dye to transfer also, so I'd suggest light leather & maybe a pale brown or cream type color of fabric. IOW try to match them a bit so the transfer isn't too obvious!
I wanted to be able to buckle myself - nearly impossible when it buckles in the back, which the original one did. I also wanted it to be lighter and more fitted to me.
I stretch out in my armour. That's how I check f I can do that, and not sacrifice protection, I should be OK on the field. Plus I can warm up easily, in full kit, if I need to. The original brig allowed for this, and that was one of the things I liked. It also adjusted as I slimmed down from the fighting and my fitness increased.
For the fabric pattern, I used the Period Patterns #101.I believe they called it a 'surcoat with optional pockets for plates, optional sleeves.'
Plates: You will need:
- Spine: 8 plates (maybe more), 3" square
- Chest: center top: 4 plates, 6" tall & 3" wide
- Flanks: (your sides): 6 plates, 3" wide & 8" tall.
- Belly: 8 plates, 3.5" tall & 8" wide. Four of them should be cut curved at the edges. Two curved for the top, two curved for the bottom (see below). The circles indicate rivet locations:
You will want to curve the flanks and chest/belly plates slightly, to conform to your body.
Cut out the plates. Round the edges to make them less likely to cut you or your fabrics. You can use sandpaper, a power tool of some kind, or even a utility knife. Just be careful, with any of them. Then wipe them off to remove any dust.
Then drill holes for the rivets:
- Spine: one hole at each top corner
- Chest: on the outside long edge, drill one hole in the top corner and another 2" below it. For the two center pieces, drill one more in the top corner.
- Belly: Drill 4 holes, equally spaced, along the top edge.
- Flanks: Drill 3 holes along the long edge, towards the back (the side away from the chest plates). Drill a second matching row about 1" in.
Riveting:
This is how I put the rivets together:
- Push the post side through the plate, then add a washer.
- Then push the post through the linen, *between the fibers.* That's not as hard as it sounds and is better for durability.
- Add another washer.
- Put the rivet cap or washer on and set it.
-Chest plates (top front row) overlap so that they crush forwards, as if you were crossing your arms.
-Belly plates crush downwards, so you can bend over easily. Spine plates do the same.
-Flank plates crush towards the chest/belly.
Notes:
-You should have spine plates from the top down to your pants waist.
-Chest/ belly plates should also go down to your pants waist. They start lower to allow room for neck movement. That space should be covered by your gorget.
-There shouldn't be much (if any) room between flank and spine pieces when you're wearing it. There is room between mine, but not after I strap it on & add my tabard & belt.
-The chest/belly pieces should meet when the brig is buckled on. On the brig that I patterned from, they are solid pieces & the brig buckled in the back. I cut them in half in order to allow for buckling the brig in the front.
-Don't forget to shape the chest and belly pieces to fit you somewhat. It can make a big difference.
Straps: I used leather, and they seem to work best when the rivets are 3/4" (on center) below the plate rivets, two per strap on each side. The one place I didn't do that, I could see a difference in just a couple of weeks.
Sweat will cause the leather dye to transfer also, so I'd suggest light leather & maybe a pale brown or cream type color of fabric. IOW try to match them a bit so the transfer isn't too obvious!
Tuesday, October 20, 2015
Viking Clothing Resources
Still a work in progress; I will be adding more information as I gather it.
Overviews:
Simple Viking Clothing for Men (pdf)
Simple Viking Clothing for Women (pdf)
Both of the above are from http://thorsonandsvava.sccspirit.com, an SCA website for Royalty of the East (2004).
Wychwood Kit Resources - Resource page by the Wychwood Warriors (aka the Oxford University Historical Reenactment Society). Resources for male and female garb, bling, wallets, armour, etc.
Recreating Viking Clothing
The Viking Answer Lady - SCAdian, a great resource for most anything Viking.
Recreating Viking Clothing, by Hilde Thunem: Great site, as much for research as patterns.
Pants:
Overviews:
Viking Men: Clothing the Legs
Thorsberg: dated 100-300 BCE
Rus: tba
Shirts:
Overview: Viking Tunic Construction, by Þóra Sharptooth. Includes information on jackets and trims also.
Thorsberg: tba
Other one: tba
Head wear:
'Coifs': I use headscarves, rather than coifs as are found in later periods. A simple square of cloth, long enough to tie around my head and hang down far enough to cover my hair (helps keep it clean at dusty events!)
Skjoldehamn hood: A Tunic and Hood from Skjold Harbour
Dyes:
Viking Age Dyes, a Brief Overview (academia.edu)
Apron Dress:
Vidgis' Apron Pattern - Easy to fit to your measurements. I believe the straps in the finds are usually 1/2" wide, so you can use straps half the width that she calls for.
Sark (Underdress):
Honestly, I use this: Elizabethan Smock Pattern Generator. I sew the neck in first, and modify the outline to fit Viking finds. I modify the underarm gussets as needed, which varies for each person.
Ladies Coat:
The Red Jacket
Jewelry: tba
Weapons: tba
Shoes: tba
Overviews:
Simple Viking Clothing for Men (pdf)
Simple Viking Clothing for Women (pdf)
Both of the above are from http://thorsonandsvava.sccspirit.com, an SCA website for Royalty of the East (2004).
Wychwood Kit Resources - Resource page by the Wychwood Warriors (aka the Oxford University Historical Reenactment Society). Resources for male and female garb, bling, wallets, armour, etc.
Recreating Viking Clothing
The Viking Answer Lady - SCAdian, a great resource for most anything Viking.
Recreating Viking Clothing, by Hilde Thunem: Great site, as much for research as patterns.
Pants:
Overviews:
Viking Men: Clothing the Legs
Thorsberg: dated 100-300 BCE
Rus: tba
Shirts:
Overview: Viking Tunic Construction, by Þóra Sharptooth. Includes information on jackets and trims also.
Thorsberg: tba
Other one: tba
Head wear:
'Coifs': I use headscarves, rather than coifs as are found in later periods. A simple square of cloth, long enough to tie around my head and hang down far enough to cover my hair (helps keep it clean at dusty events!)
Skjoldehamn hood: A Tunic and Hood from Skjold Harbour
Dyes:
Viking Age Dyes, a Brief Overview (academia.edu)
Apron Dress:
Vidgis' Apron Pattern - Easy to fit to your measurements. I believe the straps in the finds are usually 1/2" wide, so you can use straps half the width that she calls for.
Sark (Underdress):
Honestly, I use this: Elizabethan Smock Pattern Generator. I sew the neck in first, and modify the outline to fit Viking finds. I modify the underarm gussets as needed, which varies for each person.
Ladies Coat:
The Red Jacket
Jewelry: tba
Weapons: tba
Shoes: tba
Monday, July 6, 2015
My SCA Timeline
I usually attend two events a month, on average, and often help with clean up & teardown. Below are highlights. To see a more complete list of my work and creations in the SCA, please go to the Atlantian Wiki.
February:
January: Ice Castles Barony of Black Diamond, Atlantia
April:
March:
February:
September: Rip Rap War.
March: Tir-y-Don Baronial Birthday:
September: Bacon Wars: A Haus Divided:
March: Tir-y-Don Baronial Birthday:
For anyone interested, here is a link to the full Atlantian Order of Precedence, with information on awards & recipients.
~~ 2019 ~~
June: University #101, Barony of Black Diamond:- Taught Leathercare 101 (first time teaching)
February:
- Relocated to Barony of Black Diamond
January: Ice Castles Barony of Black Diamond, Atlantia
- A&S: Open display of Anglo-Saxon Seax Sheath.
- A&S: Competed my first scroll. Entered it into, and won, ‘Best Scroll Border’ competition. Scroll: Staffordshire Hoard Seax Scroll
~~ 2018 ~~
April:
- Martial: Started a Facebook group for Youth Combat in Tir-y-don and Marinus. As I was marshaling for two baronies, this seemed the easiest way to coordinate practices.
March:
- Martial: Officially became Youth Armored Combat Marshal for Tir-y-don.&
February:
- Martial: Started organizing Youth Armored Combat practices in Tir-y-don.
~~ 2017 ~~
October: War of the Wings:- Martial: Completed Marshal training for both Youth and Adult Heavy Combat.
September: Rip Rap War.
- Service: Inducted into the Atlantian Order of the Opal (AoA-level service award).
- Service: Stepped down as Seneschal of Tir-y-don at the monthly business meeting.
~~ 2016 ~~
March: Kingdom Arts & Sciences:- A&S: Displayed Viking Coat - a modern trench coat (‘suede’ with wool pelt lining) being modified onto a Viking caftan.
~~ 2015 ~~
March: Tir-y-Don Baronial Birthday & 40th Anniversary.- Martial: Inducted into the Atlantian Order of the Osprey (AoA-level fighting award)
- Service: Inducted into the Baronial Order of the Swan and Cygnet (service award).&
- Service: Stepped up as Seneschal for Tir-y-Don.
~~ 2014 ~~
April: Spring Coronation:- Squired to Sir Harald Brandarm of Dun Carraig, Atlantia.
March: Tir-y-Don Baronial Birthday:
- Martial: Inducted into the Baronial Order of the Orca (fighting award for prowess & chivalry)
~~ 2013 ~~
October: Fall Coronation:- Received my Award of Arms.
September: Bacon Wars: A Haus Divided:
- A&S: Displayed Jewelry Box. Modern materials, period-based artwork on outside, with documentation.
March: Tir-y-Don Baronial Birthday:
- Martial: Authorized as a heavy fighter.
- A&S: Entered and won (to my complete shock) the A&S competition, for food. I made carrageen pudding, with documentation. Delicious, easy, and fairly quick to make.
~~ 2012 ~~
March: Tir-y-Don Baronial Birthday:- Attended first event as guest. I've been told I couldn't have been more distracted if I tried - and no, there weren't even any horses there =)
For anyone interested, here is a link to the full Atlantian Order of Precedence, with information on awards & recipients.
An Introduction ~
I am Þóra Hrafnsdottir, also known as Thóra the Tall, of the Barony of Black Diamond, Atlantia. I am a heavy fighter, I do Arts & Sciences, and make most of my armor and garb.
I am squired to Harald Brandarm of Dun Carraig, Atlantia.
The title of the blog comes from my original heraldry, which is now registered as my badge: Argent, five swords in annulo, points to center sable within an annulet gules. I describe it as 'five swords within a red ribbon pierced with five needles'. The swords for my fighting, the needles for my fiber arts, and the ribbon for the blood of life.
My current device was submitted in the winter of 2016, and I kept one sword, one needle, and the red ribbon from the heraldry that I originally submitted. This was registered in February of 2017: Argent, a raven rising perched upon and maintaining a sword fesswise sable, on a chief gules a needle argent.
The red is for family (both blood and chosen family), the needle is pointed at my family (to the right as you look at it) to show that I take care of them. The raven is messenger to the gods, and the sword is pointed to the left as you look at it. When I hold my shield on the field of combat, it is pointed at those who may threaten the ones I can about. (To clarify - I am not threatening harm to anyone here; I am expressing the
My Arts & Sciences:
I am squired to Harald Brandarm of Dun Carraig, Atlantia.
The title of the blog comes from my original heraldry, which is now registered as my badge: Argent, five swords in annulo, points to center sable within an annulet gules. I describe it as 'five swords within a red ribbon pierced with five needles'. The swords for my fighting, the needles for my fiber arts, and the ribbon for the blood of life.
My current device was submitted in the winter of 2016, and I kept one sword, one needle, and the red ribbon from the heraldry that I originally submitted. This was registered in February of 2017: Argent, a raven rising perched upon and maintaining a sword fesswise sable, on a chief gules a needle argent.
I took the elements of the original submission, added a raven, and redesigned it. The red ribbon is now a chief (a bar across the top), with the needle laying across it. The raven is holding a sword in it's claws, wings held aloft for the first downstroke as it takes flight.
The red is for family (both blood and chosen family), the needle is pointed at my family (to the right as you look at it) to show that I take care of them. The raven is messenger to the gods, and the sword is pointed to the left as you look at it. When I hold my shield on the field of combat, it is pointed at those who may threaten the ones I can about. (To clarify - I am not threatening harm to anyone here; I am expressing the
My Arts & Sciences:
- Leather: tooling, making armor and other items, as well as leather care and restoration.
- Wool: Shearing, preparation, and spinning
- Gardening: I grow herbs, flowers, and some food and dye plants
- Embroidery: crewel work, regular embroidery, and modern cross-stitch
- Sewing
- Tablet Weaving
Originally posted July 2015; updated April 2025
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