Lightweight Brigadine

I needed to replace the brigadine I was using, as it is loaner gear for my barony. I was pretty happy with how it worked for me, so I decided to copy it and add the adjustments I wanted to make.

I wanted to be able to buckle myself - nearly impossible when it buckles in the back, which the original one did. I also wanted it to be lighter and more fitted to me.

I stretch out in my armour. That's how I check f I can do that, and not sacrifice protection, I should be OK on the field. Plus I can warm up easily, in full kit,  if I need to. The original brig allowed for this, and that was one of the things I liked. It also adjusted as I slimmed down from the fighting and my fitness increased.

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For the fabric pattern, I used the Period Patterns #101.I believe they called it a 'surcoat with optional pockets for plates, optional sleeves.'

Plates: You will need:

• Spine: 8 plates (maybe more),  3" square
• Chest: center top: 4 plates,  6" tall & 3" wide
• Flanks: (your sides): 6 plates,  3" wide &  8" tall.
• Belly: 8 plates, 3.5" tall &  8" wide.  Four of them should be cut curved at the edges. Two curved for the top, two curved for the bottom (see below). The circles indicate rivet locations: 

You will want to curve the flanks and chest/belly plates slightly,  to conform to your body. 

Cut out the plates. Round the edges to make them less likely to cut you or your fabrics.  You can use sandpaper, a power tool of some kind, or even a utility knife. Just be careful, with any of them. Then wipe them off to remove any dust.

Then drill holes for the rivets:

• Spine: one hole at each top corner 
• Chest: on the outside long edge, drill one hole in the top corner and another 2" below it. For the two center pieces, drill one more in the top corner. 
• Belly: Drill 4 holes, equally spaced, along the top edge. 
• Flanks: Drill 3 holes along the long edge, towards the back (the side away from the chest plates). Drill a second matching row about 1" in.

At this point,  I covered mine in white duct tape for two reasons.  One, it also helps reduce the chance of them cutting the fabric. Two, camouflage - black plastic shows up quite well through white linen, and I didn't want it to!

Riveting:
This is how I put the rivets together:

• Push the post side through the plate, then add a washer.
• Then push the post through the linen, *between the fibers.* That's not as hard as it sounds and is better for durability. 
• Add another washer.
• Put the rivet cap or washer on and set it.

The plates should overlap about an inch:
   -Chest plates (top front row) overlap so that they crush forwards, as if you were crossing your arms.
   -Belly plates crush downwards, so you can bend over easily. Spine plates do the same.
   -Flank plates crush towards the chest/belly.

Notes:
   -You should have spine plates from the top down to your pants waist.
   -Chest/ belly plates should also go down to your pants waist. They start lower to allow room for neck movement. That space should be covered by your gorget.
   -There shouldn't be much (if any) room between flank and spine pieces when you're wearing it.  There is room between mine, but not after I strap it on & add my tabard & belt.
   -The chest/belly pieces should meet when the brig is buckled on. On the brig that I patterned from,  they are solid pieces & the brig buckled in the back. I cut them in half in order to allow for buckling the brig in the front.
   -Don't forget to shape the chest and belly pieces to fit you somewhat. It can make a big difference.

Straps: I used leather, and they seem to work best when the rivets are 3/4" (on center) below the plate rivets, two per strap on each side. The one place I didn't do that, I could see a difference in just a couple of weeks.

Sweat will cause the leather dye to transfer also, so I'd suggest light leather & maybe a pale brown or cream type color of fabric. IOW try to match them a bit so the transfer isn't too obvious!